A Stroll Through Montparnasse Cemetery in Paris

    Paris' Montparnasse Cemetery is a lovely place to stroll and contemplate. Image: Courtney Traub/All rights reserved

    Opened in 1824, Montparnasse Cemetery sits on a site that was once occupied by three farms, in what was then a rural, sleepy corner of southern Paris. Home to the graves of denizens […]

    Seeking Belle-Epoque Paris in the Grands Boulevards District: My Full Guide

    Les ARcades de Paris, Galerie Vivienne/David Pendery/Creative Commons

    Technically, the tangled arrangement of wide, grandiose streets known as the Grands Boulevards in Paris stretch all the way from the Eglise Madeleine church in the 8th arrondissement (district) to the Place de […]

    In Review: Fou de Pâtisserie, a Parisian Pastry Shop for the Indecisive

    Fou de Patisserie, Rue des Martyrs, ParisA variety of tempting French pastries from different chef-patissiers is sold at Fou de Patisserie. Which one to choose--that's the dilemma. Image: Courtney Traub/All rights reserved

    Strolling down Rue des Martyrs, a stretch of Paris’ South Pigalle that packs more gourmet power in a single street than most entire neighborhoods do, I noticed a patisserie that was clearly out […]

    The Louvre/Tuileries District in Paris: What to See & Do Around the Museum?

    The quirky entrance to the metro at Place Colette, Paris. Patrick Janicek/Creative Commons

    If you only have a few days to explore Paris or it’s your first trip to the capital, you may want to spend a few hours roaming around the Louvre/Tuileries district. Besides harboring […]

    After the Fire: A Short History of Notre-Dame Cathedral’s Disasters & Rebirths

    Like most people, I felt a lump rising in my throat when I saw images of Notre-Dame Cathedral lapped with flames and choked by smoke on April 15th. The fire, ostensibly an accidental […]

    In Focus: Paris’ Palais Royal, a Haven From the Crowds

    Palais Royal in springtime, Paris. Julien Maury/Creative Commons

    It may be just a few hundred feet away from the Louvre, the buzzing epicenter of tourism in the French capital. It may house a Michelin-starred restaurant, opulent boutiques, centuries-old theatres, covered passageways […]

    Academie de la Grande Chaumière: The Paris Art Studio Favored by Modigliani, Miró and Lempicka

    On a quiet side street in Montparnasse that seems worlds apart from the frenetic Boulevards and terraced cafes just feet away, there’s a typically Belle-Epoque building you’d be forgiven for not noticing. But […]

    In Review: The Grand Pigalle Hotel in Paris

      Situated in South Pigalle, a formerly seedy Parisian district that’s recently been colonized by hipsters, foodies and fashionistas, the Grand Pigalle Hotel has only been open since 2015. Yet it’s quickly become […]

    Inside La Coupole, a Montparnasse Brasserie Haunted With Artistic History

      Referring to the legendary Parisian brasserie on Boulevard de Montparnasse, French historian Georges Viaud once remarked: “If the tables [here] could talk, they would tell the story of La Coupole’s role in […]

    Belleville Artists’ Open Studios: Get a Glimpse of Local Creation

    Belleville artists' studios open house days/ Ateliers d'artistes de Belleville Portes Ouvertes

    Every year in late spring, over 200 artists working and living in Paris’ northeastern Belleville neighborhood open their studios for a few days to the general public. The Portes Ouvertes (open doors) event takes place […]

    Paris Boat Tours & Cruises: Are They Worth Your Time?

    Bateaux Parisiens dinner cruise on the Seine, with Notre Dame Cathedral in the background.

    Most “top attractions” lists for the French capital, including my own, suggest a boat tour of the Seine or Paris’ other waterways. But since these sorts of cruises are so commonplace– and hardly […]

    Inside the 104 (Cent-Quatre), a Vibrant Contemporary Arts Hub in Paris

    A fascinating and important branch in the Parisian culture scene, the 104 (Le Cent Quatre) is a vast communal art center in Paris’ remote 19th arrondissement. This sprawling artistic hub and community center– […]

    The Best Spots for Picnics in Paris, From Parks to Riverbanks

    The best places for picnics in Paris, from parks to riverside quays

    Like they do with pretty much everything else, Parisians make a true art of the spring or summer picnic. It’s not just a quick meal on the grass or a bench– it’s an […]

    A Short History of French Macarons, From Saint-Emilion to Paris

    The history of French macarons is a disputed, and fascinating, one.

    On a recent trip to the fortified medieval town of Saint-Emilion, my partner and I stayed in a lovely B&B plunged in the middle of the vineyards, outside the city walls. Our amiable […]

    Paris Airport Taxis: How to Use Them (& Avoid the Bad Ones)

    Never get in a Paris taxi without a meter and an illuminated rooftop sign.

    I still remember my first bad taxi ride from Charles de Gaulle Airport. I was returning home from a visit with family in California, lugging around suitcases so heavy I thought I might […]

    Paris Loves Vinyl: The Coveted Collectors’ Event Returns in February

    PARIS-LOVES-VINYL-6

    Do you routinely lament the poor sound quality of MP3s and other digital music formats, as your spouse or friends groan at your predictable rant? Do you pine after the smell, touch, and […]

    6 Tips for Avoiding Tourist Traps & Scams in Paris

    AVoid these tourist traps and scams in Paris

    As one of the world’s most-visited cities, Paris relies on tourism to thrive economically. While that’s generally a mutually beneficial thing, it has its downsides. For one thing, certain areas can seem devoid […]

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