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Latest in Best of Paris

Monet's Nympheas series: a tribute to world peace at the Orangerie in Paris. Image credit: Adrian Scottow/Some rights reserved under the Creative Commons licens

Small Museums in Paris: 7 Remarkable Gems to See

  The first time I set foot inside the Louvre Museum, I had already been living in Paris for three or four years. The guests I accompanied were astounded that I’d never bothered to visit the collections there, but I’m […]

Caramelle pasta with asparagus and walnuts: one of many delicious homemade dishes at Come a Casa. Image: ©Courtney Traub

4 Of The Best Italian Restaurants in Paris: My Picks

When I moved to Paris in the early 2000s , Italian cuisine was certainly not a notable feature or strong point in the local food landscape. I knew of a few mediocre, albeit perfectly serviceable, pizzerias. I occasionally dined at […]

In Review: Farine & O, One of Paris’ Best New Bakeries

  It’s a well-established fact that the most talented French boulangers (bread bakers) are not generally equally gifted at producing top-notch pastries. Similarly, pâtissiers (pastry makers) tend to fall into a class of their very own, and wouldn’t generally claim to be […]

Latest in When to Go

Paris in February can produce quite a bit of unexpected charm, but you have to open yourself to it.

Paris in February: How to Find Its Quiet Charms

  In February, there’s little of postcard-style Paris to behold. You might say that the capital is at its lowest ebb: the surge in tourism that comes with Christmas and the new year is now firmly in the rear-view mirror, and […]

Paris in its January guise, outside the Centre Pompidou.

Visiting Paris in January: Some Recommendations in 2018

  Many of my French friends loathe Paris in January. According to their dramatic telling, it becomes a miserable, soul-devouring and depressing place that might easily have been featured as one of Dante’s seven circles of hell. Not to mention […]

Winter in Paris, circa 1996. EuroVizion/Creative Commons

Why to Love Paris in December: My Seasonal Suggestions

This video showing snow gently dusting bikes, buildings, trees, cars and dogs in Montmartre has no dialogue. Yet it wordlessly captures many of the reasons why winter in the French capital offers a particular and poetic beauty: one that too many […]

5 Fantastic Day Trips From Paris by Train

As this goes to press, spring is gently unfolding (admittedly following a mild winter that barely felt like one at all). So my mind turns, predictably enough, to short getaways from the city. True, as detailed in my thoughts elsewhere […]

Latest in History of Paris

Edith Piaf was born in Paris; for fans of "la mome", there are several key sites to see in the French capital. Image credit: Piano Piano/Creative Commons 2.0

Seeking Edith Piaf in Paris? Visit These 4 Places

  Affectionately dubbed “the little sparrow” and “la môme” (the kid) in France, Edith Piaf is a musical legend who has (rather surprisingly?) resonated with successive generations of listeners. Thanks in part to Olivier Dahan’s biopic starring Marion Cotillard, “La Vie […]

Great Parisians: In Tribute to Simone Veil

In late June, France lost Simone Veil, one of the most important figures in the long battle for women’s rights. Little-known outside the French-speaking world, Veil, who died at the age of 89 from natural causes, was a Holocaust survivor […]

Latest in Food

Caramelle pasta with asparagus and walnuts: one of many delicious homemade dishes at Come a Casa. Image: ©Courtney Traub

4 Of The Best Italian Restaurants in Paris: My Picks

When I moved to Paris in the early 2000s , Italian cuisine was certainly not a notable feature or strong point in the local food landscape. I knew of a few mediocre, albeit perfectly serviceable, pizzerias. I occasionally dined at […]

Winter in Paris, circa 1996. EuroVizion/Creative Commons

Why to Love Paris in December: My Seasonal Suggestions

This video showing snow gently dusting bikes, buildings, trees, cars and dogs in Montmartre has no dialogue. Yet it wordlessly captures many of the reasons why winter in the French capital offers a particular and poetic beauty: one that too many […]

In Review: Farine & O, One of Paris’ Best New Bakeries

  It’s a well-established fact that the most talented French boulangers (bread bakers) are not generally equally gifted at producing top-notch pastries. Similarly, pâtissiers (pastry makers) tend to fall into a class of their very own, and wouldn’t generally claim to be […]

Latest in Paris Culture

Cafe terrace in Paris, France

How I Finally Cracked Parisian (and French) Humor

  Much ink has been spilled about French people having no “real”sense of humor– at least not beyond a strong penchant for biting political satire, à la Voltaire. As a 2003 article in the Economist opined: Does humour exist in France? […]

Latest in Travel Tips

The Hotel Gavarni in Paris: An Eco-Friendly Lodging Option?

Located on a peaceful street in the upwardly mobile Paris neighborhood known as Passy, the three-star Hotel Gavarni is a traditional hotel built in 1907 that has been awarded the European Ecolabel for environmentally friendly business practices. Clean, comfortable and […]

Paris in February can produce quite a bit of unexpected charm, but you have to open yourself to it.

Paris in February: How to Find Its Quiet Charms

  In February, there’s little of postcard-style Paris to behold. You might say that the capital is at its lowest ebb: the surge in tourism that comes with Christmas and the new year is now firmly in the rear-view mirror, and […]

Monet's Nympheas series: a tribute to world peace at the Orangerie in Paris. Image credit: Adrian Scottow/Some rights reserved under the Creative Commons licens

Small Museums in Paris: 7 Remarkable Gems to See

  The first time I set foot inside the Louvre Museum, I had already been living in Paris for three or four years. The guests I accompanied were astounded that I’d never bothered to visit the collections there, but I’m […]

Paris in its January guise, outside the Centre Pompidou.

Visiting Paris in January: Some Recommendations in 2018

  Many of my French friends loathe Paris in January. According to their dramatic telling, it becomes a miserable, soul-devouring and depressing place that might easily have been featured as one of Dante’s seven circles of hell. Not to mention […]

Latest in Off the Beaten Path

Edith Piaf was born in Paris; for fans of "la mome", there are several key sites to see in the French capital. Image credit: Piano Piano/Creative Commons 2.0

Seeking Edith Piaf in Paris? Visit These 4 Places

  Affectionately dubbed “the little sparrow” and “la môme” (the kid) in France, Edith Piaf is a musical legend who has (rather surprisingly?) resonated with successive generations of listeners. Thanks in part to Olivier Dahan’s biopic starring Marion Cotillard, “La Vie […]

Monet's Nympheas series: a tribute to world peace at the Orangerie in Paris. Image credit: Adrian Scottow/Some rights reserved under the Creative Commons licens

Small Museums in Paris: 7 Remarkable Gems to See

  The first time I set foot inside the Louvre Museum, I had already been living in Paris for three or four years. The guests I accompanied were astounded that I’d never bothered to visit the collections there, but I’m […]

Why Paris’ Rue Montorgueil Will Always Feel Like Home

  At the wobbly, bright-eyed age of 22, I moved to Paris to take up a seven-month teaching assistantship at a middle school in one of the city’s northern suburbs. Having barely adjusted to the outrageous slings and arrows of adulthood, […]

Latest in Hotels & Lodging

The Hotel Gavarni in Paris: An Eco-Friendly Lodging Option?

Located on a peaceful street in the upwardly mobile Paris neighborhood known as Passy, the three-star Hotel Gavarni is a traditional hotel built in 1907 that has been awarded the European Ecolabel for environmentally friendly business practices. Clean, comfortable and […]

Latest in Paris on a Budget

Edith Piaf was born in Paris; for fans of "la mome", there are several key sites to see in the French capital. Image credit: Piano Piano/Creative Commons 2.0

Seeking Edith Piaf in Paris? Visit These 4 Places

  Affectionately dubbed “the little sparrow” and “la môme” (the kid) in France, Edith Piaf is a musical legend who has (rather surprisingly?) resonated with successive generations of listeners. Thanks in part to Olivier Dahan’s biopic starring Marion Cotillard, “La Vie […]

Latest in Worst of Paris